Categories
Family Music

To Elena, on picking

Dear Elena,

Picking

People have been singing you to sleep since you were born. When I have the extraordinary opportunity to sing you to sleep, I sing some songs that the other lucky grown-ups don’t. Like, “If I had a Boat” by Lyle Lovett. You like that one a lot, and sing along.

But there’s one I’ve been singing for years, as much a wish as anything. It’s a Jimmy Buffett tune called, “There’s Something so Feminine About a Mandolin.

You see, there’s this one couplet, where he’s talking about a theoretical daughter he might have…

Maybe one day she’ll take a fancy to picking,
Cause when that bug bites you, you live with the sting.

“Picking,” as you’ll know by now, is what bluegrass musicians call just sitting around and playing music. “You wanna pick?” “Let’s pick one.”

And darned if you haven’t become a picker. The instrument that you picked to pick on doesn’t use a pick, though.

Fiddle

The first musical instrument you started taking lessons on was drums. You actually did pretty well with that, and in fact, I wrote a blog about you playing drums.

But after a few months, you said you wanted to give up drums. What you really wanted to play, you said, was fiddle. We were all a bit skeptical, but you continued on the fiddle theme for quite a while. Then the universe smiled on us all. Because I was playing in a band called Critical Grass, and the fiddle player in that band is an extraordinary woman named Leah Wollenberg. Well, Leah teaches fiddle at Manning Music in Berkeley, and they thought that Leah would be the perfect teacher for you.

They were right.

You and Leah immediately bonded over Harry Potter (I think she might be a Hufflepuff) and became really good friends. She’s also doing an amazing job of teaching you fiddle. And it seems like you’ve truly taken a fancy to picking – you are eager to pull out your fiddle when there’s an opportunity to play.

In fact, when we were up at Strawberry this year, you brought your fiddle, because pickers bring their instruments to Strawberry. So your dad and I got to sit and pick a few with you.

You’ve already outgrown one rental fiddle and are on your second (third?) one.

You and Leah keep learning more new tunes. You started with Boil Them Cabbage Down, because that’s what all of Manning’s students start with. Then Old Joe Clark. Cluck Old Hen, and we all got to sing along:

My old hen’s, a real good hen – she lays eggs for the railroad men.
Sometimes one, sometimes two, sometimes enough for the whole damn crew.
Cluck old hen, cluck and squaw – ain’t laid an egg since late last fall.
Cluck old hen, cluck and sing – ain’t laid an egg since late last spring.

Leah taught you Elk River Blues, which I’d never heard, but is a beautiful tune. And now you’re starting on Soldier’s Joy.

Playing with the band

A few weeks ago, our band, Critical Grass, was going to be playing a gig at Gather in Berkeley. You’ve been to Gather plenty of times to see me and Uncle John play music, but you mostly ate french fries and crawled around the garden area on the patio.

But a couple of weeks before this gig, Leah asked you, “Do you want to come up and play a tune with us at Gather?”

Somewhat to our surprise, you said, “Sure.”

So on Saturday, September 7, 2024, you, your mom, Ana, and Great-Gran were all sitting at a table at Gather. You were probably eating french fries. Leah said into the microphone, “Okay, Elena, it’s your turn after this song, so get ready.”

Ana said, “Let’s get your fiddle out of its case.”

Nope. You took your fiddle case over to where the band had all their fiddle cases. You set it down right next to Leah’s fiddle case, and then opened it up. Because hey, when you’re with the band, you’re with the band, right?

After that – well, let’s roll the video…

Elena Haupert plays Old Joe Clark with Critical Grass at Gather in Berkeley. 9/7/24

I couldn’t have been more proud. And man, Leah, she was over the moon at how well you did.

After we finished Old Joe Clark, you went over to where your mom and Ana were sitting (they’d switched seats to be really close to the band when you played). You plopped down in your mom’s lap.

“How was it?”

“I’m still shaking.”

I get it – stuff like that can make a person nervous. But you did marvelously. In fact, you did better than you may have realized. At one point, Leah was playing the melody an octave below you. Maybe because she wasn’t exactly doubling you, you got a little off. This is what Leah told me:

Gotta say the moment I felt proudest at Gather was when Elena got off while I was playing the melody an octave below. They stayed totally calm and got right back on within a few seconds. That’s some Real Musician stuff right there.

Real Musician stuff. Nice.

Over a century of picking

Years ago, people didn’t have the Internet. Or TV. Maybe they had a radio, but in poorer parts of the country, they didn’t even have that. What they did have was a few musical instruments. And on a Friday or Saturday night, they’d sit on the porch, or in the back yard, depending on the weather. They’d play music, and people would dance.

And this past week, you got to be part of your first backyard picking. I mean, you’ve been around backyard (and living room and campsite) picking since before you can remember. Like, check this out. When you were just turned five:

I wanna call the next tune. How about Let it go?

In fact, you and a fiddle had gotten introduced to each other many years ago, at an instrument “petting zoo”:

Your mom said you started crying when you heard the bow pulled over the string. Which, any of us who have been around beginning fiddle players understand.

Interestingly, once you started studying with Leah, that didn’t happen. Somehow, almost from the first lesson, nice sounds came out of your fiddle.

But this was the first time you were part of the circle.

Picking in your back yard

It was a slightly delayed birthday party for me at your house, the day after you played at Gather. Your dad had set up chairs in a big circle in your backyard, and invited a bunch of our friends over. Everybody ate hot dogs and hamburgers, then it was time to pick.

You went to your parents’ room, and got your fiddle. You carried it to a chair in the circle, sat down, opened up your case, and waited. Good job you’re patient, because pickers can procrastinate. In fact, there’s a phrase that we use sometimes:

“Are we going to talk, or are we going to pick?”

Starting from the tie-dye guy: Aby, Mary Schriner, Jeff Ward, E-blast, Dad, John McFarlane. Uncle John and his mandolin sat down shortly after.

And here I want to give a big shout-out to the pickers. Because once everybody sat down, we all looked at you, and somebody said, “What do you know?”

Old Joe Clark.”

And so we played Old Joe Clark. And man, E-blast, you nailed it, playing along with everybody, just like you’d done the day before at Gather.

When we finished that, we played Boil Them Cabbage. And Cluck Old Hen. With the words.

There were 8-10 people up on your brand new deck, eating dessert and enjoying the music. After every tune, they’d cheer and applaud. Your great-grandmother, Liz, got to hear you in the middle of the picking circle!

Mary Schriner, a lovely woman and fiddle player who we’ve met only recently, said, “If you study at Manning, you might know Elk River Blues.”

“That’s a great tune,” I said, “But I don’t remember how it starts.”

“Me neither,” said Mary.

John the fiddle player said, “I’ve heard it before but…”

Then you said, “Oh wait. I think I might be able to start it.”

Sure enough, you played the first few notes, and everybody said, “Oh yeah!”

Next thing you know, we were playing Elk River Blues. Jeff, Uncle John, your dad, and I worked out the chords, and we played it through 3-4 times. It was so lovely, and everybody got to enjoy it all because you were able to remember the opening phrase and play it. Later, Ana said, “Can’t you just hear the river in that tune?”

“Yes, I can,” said you.

Just a few of us picking…

Elena, families and friends picking together is a tradition that goes back over 150 years. I’ve been picking since I was a teenager 50 years ago. In front rooms, back yards, camp sites, garages, and little country stores in the middle of nowhere in the Blue Ridge mountains.

I’ve picked with octogenarians and six-year olds.

This music, and any music like it, is magic. You don’t need a big old band, or amplifiers. You don’t need electricity, sheet music, or a conductor. You just need a handful of people and their instruments.

Sometimes there’s an audience (like at Gather, or the listeners on your deck this past Sunday). Maybe you’re picking in a camp site, and passersby stop to listen, because it makes them happy. But sometimes, it’s just a few of us picking.

There’s a huge fabric of people making music together. My uncle Harry (Hunter’s brother) used to pick in the side yard at the cabin with Wayne Henderson, the fellow who built Rose the guitar. Then Harry taught me my first bluegrass song on the guitar (“Love, please come home“) and bought me my first bluegrass album (Bill Monroe’s Uncle Pen). I taught your dad and Uncle John some tunes. Now you’re learning from your dad, and Uncle John, and me. And, of course, Leah. Mostly Leah.

We’re all threads in this fabric of music weavers, and now you’re a thread too. I am so blessed that our musical threads are intertwined. And I hope that somewhere down the road, you’ll be teaching Elk River Blues to your kid, or the nine-year-old next door who’s entranced by your fiddle.

‘Cause when that bug bites you, you live with the sting.

Love, Aby

Categories
Family

To Elena, on autonomy

Dear Elena,

“Autonomy” is a big word, and a big idea. It means that you get to decide what you’re going to do. When you’re a baby, you have zero autonomy because you’re helpless. You need people to feed, clothe, and generally care for you.

As you get older, you become more and more “autonomous” – you can make your own decisions. Like at a certain age, you started having opinions about which clothes you wanted (and didn’t want) to wear. Because your parents are cool, they pretty much let you choose your clothes. And suddenly we all got a better understanding of who you were, because of clothes you chose.

Like most kids, you’ve gotten more autonomy with each passing month and year, but man, Strawberry this year – it was a big jump.

You were jumping out of your skin with anticipation for Strawberry this year. Last year was your first year there, and you thought it was the bomb. This year, your BFF Ayla was going to be there and that was definitely what you were most excited about.

Setting up camp

Your dad and I arrived Wednesday and got camp all set up. He did the really important work of finding “real estate” – a place for us to set up camp. He found an amazing spot near the parking lot, and just a few feet from the amphitheater where all the kid activities are.

Thursday, you and Ana drove up together, and got stuck in awful traffic. Ana said you were super chill about the whole thing, but man, when you got out the car, you came running…

“Aby! I’m at Strawberry!”

Yes, you were. While we sat around eating dinner, I told you about the “Find My Way Home” game I’d created. The fun thing is that now that you can read, I could just hand you the piece of paper, and watch you take it in…

“Aby, what’s a FAQ?”

You thought that was pretty cool, particularly as it dawned on you that you were going to be navigating around Strawberry on your own, with Ayla.

See, Strawberry is held at the Nevada Fairgrounds in Grass Valley, California. It’s a pretty big place, and I wanted you and Ayla to feel that you could find your way to and from the music meadow, or other activities, without needing a grown-up along.

It’s also a way to be sure that if you get lost, you can get un-lost. Strawberry is the perfect place to do this. It’s an enclosed, gate-protected place, there are staff people all over, and if you got lost, there was a sea of tie-dye-wearing grown-ups, any one of whom would ensure you got back home.

Challenge #1

Friday afternoon, after Ayla, her mom, and your mom arrived, we did the first challenge. You, Ayla, and I walked to Gate #5, which is the main entrance way from the parking lot into the area where the music is. It was a straight shot along the back of the parking lot from Gate #5 back to our camp.

Ayla said, “It will be easy to find our way home from here.”

“Yeah,” you said, “No problem.”

“You’re not supposed to say that!”

You both got it immediately.

“Oh, we think we can find our way home from here.”

So I turned you two loose, and off you went. I hung back to be sure I wasn’t in the way, and even took a detour so I got back to camp a little bit later.

“We got back without getting lost, Aby. Do we get $2 each?”

You sure did.

But it wasn’t the money that was making you and Ayla smile. Those were the smiles of confidence and autonomy. For one of the first times in your life, you and Ayla were going somewhere without a grown-up accompanying you. With your own smarts, sense of direction, and good sense to take care of you.

You had every reason to smile.

Camping out

You and Ayla set up Ayla’s tent in a little island between our family camp and the amphitheater. You decorated it, including a map of Strawberry hanging from the ceiling. You went to the arts and crafts area, and made a sign to hang at your camp:

Y’all never slept in the tent, but it was your place. A place you could go to get away from the grown-ups if you wanted to. More autonomy.

Challenge #2

We were all down at the music meadow. You guys were sitting in the wagon together, and I got to thinking that this was probably the last season that you’d both fit in it together.

I asked you both if you wanted to do another “Find My Way Home” challenge.

“Yes!”

“Okay. This will be a five dollar challenge. Make your way back to camp, and then come back here. Bring something back from camp to prove that you got there. Oh, and you have a 20-minute time limit.”

I thought it would be a good idea to have a time limit, mostly to encourage y’all not to wander around and get distracted.

Ten minutes later, I get a call from your dad.

“Um, I need to give Elena eye drops. But they say that the timer is running and they can’t stay to get eyedrops. Could we pause the timer?”

I laughed so hard. “Sure, we can pause the timer.”

I went somewhere, and when I came back, you and Ayla were in the cart again.

“Aby, you owe us $5!”

Since I’d gotten a call from your dad, I was pretty sure y’all had made it back to camp. I paid up immediately, and you immediately found uses for those $5 bills…

Note the tails

Raptor attention

Saturday morning, there was a raptor demonstration, including Roja the red-tailed hawk, at a little stage near the music meadow. You, Ayla, Rasta, Josie, and Ace all wanted to go to it.

Josie is 12, Rasta is 6, and everybody else is in between. Josie is an extremely responsible girl. I don’t remember how it all happened but the five of you set off to see Roja.

After a while, I looked around camp. There sat eight adults, having adult conversations.

“Wait. Do you realize what’s happening?”

“No kids,” giggled Josie’s mom.

Now Rasta, he’s six, and he can be a handful sometimes. There was some worry that he might be a couple of handfuls for you all. So I volunteered to wander down there and make sure everything was cool.

I quietly made my way up to the area where they were having the raptor show, saw what I needed to see, then slipped around to take a picture.

Raptors are the coolest. Except for Rasta, Ace, Ayla, Elena, and Josie

After the show was over, and you all had gotten up to get a closer look at Roja, I said you should probably head on home.

“Okay.”

And off you went. I hung back – I didn’t want you to feel like you were being followed.

But I stayed close enough to make sure that particularly Rasta didn’t go left when you went right. I was being silly…

You all ended up on the dirt path that follows the creek – a straight shot back to our camp. Rasta was hanging back, because he had six-year-old reasons you didn’t. Then I heard a girl’s voice from further ahead, “C’mon Rasta!”

And he did.

The biggest challenge

On Saturday afternoon, y’all told me you wanted one more big challenge.

“A big challenge?”

“Yeah.”

First, we walked down to the command post, where they had a big stack of camp maps. I wanted to be sure you had a map with you, because both of you are perfectly capable of using a map.

I explained the “Find My Way Home” challenge to the staffer there, and then we had a conversation.

“What if you get lost, I mean really lost?”

“We’ll find a worker person.”

“Okay, good first idea. And what will you ask them?”

Ayla: “How to get to the music meadow.”
Elena: “How to get to Gate #5.”

Your noggins had worked out that you couldn’t ask where your family’s camp was, but if you got to either the music meadow or Gate #5, you’d know the way home from there.

Excellent thinking, E-blast.

I walked you to the farthest reach of the campground I could find. So far that I made it a $7 challenge. And then I told you that you had to start off in a direction opposite from the way we had come.

“No time limit, okay Aby?”

“No time limit. Go see the campground.”

The pink arrow is our camp. The blue arrow is where I dropped you and Ayla

When I got back to camp, you found me pretty quickly.

“We didn’t get lost or anything.”

Of course, the next step will be to get lost on purpose – go somewhere that you have no idea where you are. My mom, Peggy, had a t-shirt that said,

“Not all who wander are lost.”

I expect you have some great wandering ahead of you, and if you get lost, well, you know how to find your way home.

Home

Autonomy means a lot of things. It means you can wander off if you want to. But we all have to recharge our batteries. And there’s no better place to recharge your batteries than your home base.

So get out there, and put that autonomy to use. See, learn, explore, investigate, and even occasionally get lost. But just be very sure of this: your parents, Ana, me, Uncle John, Grandmother – all the people who love you – will always be there to hear the stories, put bandages on the wounds, and help get the batteries recharged for the next challenge.

Friends and family charge your batteries
Categories
Fishing Life As It Happens

A meditation on fly-fishing

Buying tomatoes

So there I was at the Lansing, North Carolina farmer’s market, buying tomatoes from the nice Rose Mountain Farm lady.

Before the farmer’s market people set up their pop-ups

“Where are y’all located?”

“We’re up Big Horse Creek Road.”

“I’m headed up there this afternoon to go fishing.”

“That’s the main reason that anybody goes up there. Do you go for the meditation, or to catch fish?”

Well, let me think about that for a moment. It was 27 years ago that I first tried fly-fishing, thanks to my dear departed cousin Dean C. Jones. Once you’ve had a trout take a dry fly off the top the water, man, you’re way more hooked than the fish is.

But I’m not a studied fly fisherman. I don’t read the books, watch the training videos, take the classes, any of it. Because the truth is that it really is a meditation for me. A few days earlier, I was chatting with the fellow at the Old Orchard Creek General Store and Café, and told him that I was headed out to go fishing.

“I hope you catch some.”

“If I’m standing in a trout stream on a day like this, and I’m not blissfully happy, then that’s on me.”

“Well, that’s right.”

I find myself settled just looking at this picture. Imagine actually being there.

So I was tempted to tell the lady that it’s all about the meditation. But then I had an interesting thought, and relayed it to her:

“The more I meditate, the more fish I seem to catch.”

In the last year or two, I’ve started to have some real success catching fish. On this current trip, I’ve caught a handful of trout in Little Horse Creek, right here in front of my AirBnB.

I don’t stop to take pictures, but I promised my AirBnB hosts one pic. He went right back in.

This is significant because N.C. Wildlife doesn’t stock Little Horse Creek. They do stock Big Horse Creek, of which Little Horse Creek is a tributary. Some fish make it up there, but fewer than in the stocked streams. And maybe they get a tad smarter after being up there a while. So I’m particularly proud of myself for catching fish in a stream they don’t stock.

Here’s the thing: when I go out for a few hours of fly fishing, I’d like to catch one trout. The difference between getting skunked and catching one beautiful fish is enormous. After that, my cup overfloweth. But on this trip, and the last couple, I seem to catch 6-8 fish every day. That’s after years of thinking that if I caught two fish, it was an extra special day.

October 14th, 2023

I headed up to the northern end of Big Horse Creek, to the catch-and-release section. From there to the Virginia state line, you can’t keep any fish. I never keep any anyway, but it’s particularly beautiful and fishy water.

I also have a theory that the fish are a bit smarter. A lot of people in this county fish for dinner, so the stocked fish go from stream to pan. But in this stretch, they get put back. Where maybe they learn their lesson and don’t bite at every single buggy-looking thing that floats over.

I dunno if that’s true or not, but I sure had a tougher time getting strikes than when I was down on the lower part of the creek. Still, I managed to land three rainbows and one beautiful brown.

Around 5:30pm, it was getting dark-ish, and there was a light rain falling. I had determined I was going to have to scale a fairly steep hill up to Big Horse Creek Road to return to my car (it’s just a whole lot easier than clambering back downstream to my entry point).

I was pretty proud of myself for catching four fish in the “tough” section of the stream. And darn proud for climbing out of that canyon back up to the road without too much exertion. All that walking and jogging pays off.

Then a thing happened. I stood up at the top of the hill, and looked down the road, back to the car. Saw this:

I wanted to find the Rose Mountain Farm lady, and tell her I’d been mistaken when we chatted that afternoon. The correct answer is, “Yes ma’am – it’s all about the meditation.”


P.S. On most browsers, you can right-click on any image and open the image in a new tab. No picture will properly convey the beauty of the scene that awaited me when I reached the top of the hill. But you’ll do your heart good by filling your screen with that for a minute and just taking it in.

Categories
Family Fishing

Elena in the Mountains

Dear Elena,

A little history

My dad’s parents, Hunter (senior) and Mattie, grew up in a tiny little community called “Helton,” in northwest North Carolina, just a few minutes from the Virginia state line. They ended up moving to Charlotte, and that’s where my dad grew up. But in 1951, they bought some land and built a summer home (“the cabin”) in the community where they’d grown up.

They would spend as much time up there as they could, during the summers. My parents visited them there, even before I was born. So I was going to “the cabin” in a stroller.

As I got older, Helton and the cabin was my favorite place in the world. At first, it was just the creek to play in, the sound of the water rushing over the dam, and the seeming endless forest that surrounded us.

I got a bit older, and became obsessed with fishing in Helton Creek. At first it was just chubs and other “rough” fish. But after I caught my first trout, well, I was hooked.

The years passed, and I went to Helton whenever I could. I’ve got 6-7 generations of ancestors buried in the family cemetery behind the white house across the creek from the cabin, going back to the early 1800’s. I call them my “friendly ghosts,” and they make me feel welcome and happy whenever I’m back there.

So when you were born, I always had a dream of taking you to the cabin, and introducing you to Helton Creek. I also wanted my friendly ghosts to get a look at you, and see what an extraordinary grandchild I had gotten in the inimitable E-blast.

Some years ago, Ana and I ended up owning half of the cabin, but because we lived in California, it was really hard for us to look after it. Fortunately, in 2020, we were able to sell it to my cousin, Greg Pool, who lives in the Greensboro, NC area. Greg and his family moved into the cabin during Covid, Greg taught from there, and his kids (Liam, Avery, and Lily) went to Zoom school there.

Once I’d met the Pool family, I wanted you to meet those cousins too – they’re pretty cool people.

Elena goes to the mountains

This year, your parents were kind enough to let us arrange a visit to the mountains for you and your dad. Ana joined us too, so we had a group of four of us, staying at a house in a place called “Fee’s Branch Road,” about five minutes from the cabin.

I flew in a couple of days before everybody else, got the AirBnB opened up, and groceries in the refrigerator. Then I drove down to the Charlotte airport and picked you two up. It was time to head up to the mountains!

It was about a 2.5 hour drive up to the AirBnB from the airport. You played on your tablet most of the trip, but as we got to the mountains, you rolled down your window. “There’s so much to smell!” Yes, a lot to smell up there.

Fishing

That evening, we outside and fished in the pond right next to the house. It was full of very stupid largemouth bass.

You didn’t catch any fish that evening, because we didn’t have any worms, but you got a couple of strikes, which was super cool.

The next day, Ana was going to be coming in from Charlotte in her own rental car, so you, your dad, and I had the morning and early afternoon to ourselves. We drove down into West Jefferson, the nearest real town. We needed a few grocery things, water shoes, and worms!

We got you the coolest water shoes ever, and then went to a store where your dad could get some local beers. This is you and me sitting outside that store.

We also found you an excellent ice cream cone of “orange dreamsicle.” Then we went to Wal-Mart. We split into two teams: Team Hot Sauce (David), and Team Worms (you and me). We found our worms immediately:

I think we won the contest.

Then we drove back up to the house, and pretty quickly headed back to the pond. We put a worm on a hook, and pretty soon, you had hooked your first fish – a largemouth bass! You got it to the shore, but you wanted me to hold it while you got the hook out. We did that one just fine.

The second one you caught, you couldn’t get the hook out, so you asked me to get the hook out of it. I was working on the hook, when I felt a hand up on my shoulder. It was you reaching up to grab the hemostat that sits in a magnetic clip on the strap of my fishing bag. You wanted the hook out of the fish, and the critter back in the water right now. I was so proud of you. Pretty quick, I had the hook out (we had squished down the barb of the hook) and the bass was back in the pond.

“Thanks buddy!” you said. My heart leapt with joy.

Ana arrives

Ana arrived that afternoon, after flying out from California. She got lost on the road that runs by our AirBnB, so we were sitting on the porch, talking to her on the phone, and could see her car going back and forth past our driveway. “No Ana, turn around and go back 100 feet!” you said.

Ana finally found her way to the house.

The Pools and the cabin

Our next day was a play date with our cousins, the Pool family. We got to the cabin, and I asked Avery if she could give you a tour. Y’all were out the door and gone. We visited with the Pools a little, and ate some lunch, but then it was creek time!

You and Avery Pool looking for crawdads. You found plenty.

I cannot express how much it meant to me to see you playing in Helton Creek. I played in that same creek, that same place, 60 years ago when I was a kid. And 60 years before that, my grandmother, Mattie Perkins, played in the same creek, in the same place – I’ve seen an old picture of her standing in it with her sister, Clara. That was in the early 1900’s – over 100 years ago. I don’t know this for a fact, but it’s quite possible that her grandmother played in that creek.

Just like my grandmother and her cousins, 110 years ago.

You had such a blast playing in the water, as I knew you would. It was especially fun because the Pool’s dog, Figment, thinks of Helton Creek as his own private swimming pool.

Elena Haupert and Figment Pool living their best lives

After that, we all sat on the bridge and just “visited.” Well, you stayed there for a little while to see if your dad would catch a trout (he did) but then you and Avery disappeared to go explore.

Blueberries

The next day was blueberry picking with the Pools. We drove out to Old Orchard Creek blueberry farm…

If I was a bear, I’d just live here.

We ended up with so many blueberries that we froze them. Then after you left, I made blueberry jam. I still have a few jars of it at our house in San Leandro.

Swimming hole

The next day was your last up in the mountains. The four of us had a quiet morning, and then went to the “swimming hole” on Helton Creek. For two hours, we did nothing – and everything – in the creek. Your dad decided to send a giant log floating down the creek, and spent 20 minutes maneuvering it into position so it would float.

But mostly we just waded around enjoying being in the creek on a warm summer day. At some point, I found a crawdad with just one claw. I lifted it out of the water so you could see it. It was a female, and she was covered with eggs on her underbelly. This blew your mind. You looked at her for a few seconds, then said we had to get her back in the water.

I put her under a rock, and then for the next minute or two, you stood right next to the rock to be sure none of us stepped on her.

Somehow, two hours flew by and we never noticed.

Time to go

The next day, we all drove back to Charlotte. You and your dad flew back to California, while Lisa and I drove up to Asheville to visit a friend.

Elena, I don’t know if you’ll remember much of this trip, but that picture of you playing in Helton Creek is the wallpaper on my computer. And the image is stored in my heart forever.

And somewhere, those old friendly ghosts, my grandmother among them, are smiling. “You got a good ‘un there, Lee,” they’re saying.

Yep, I got a good ‘un.

Elena, I caught you making music

Dear Elena,

I don’t know how long you’ve been taking drum lessons – maybe six months? You’ve tried a lot of things as a kid – softball, soccer, karate… the usual kinds of things that kids try. And none of them ever really caught on. But when asked about musical pursuits, you kept saying you wanted to play drums. And that was a recurring theme.

So we coordinated with your parents, and started taking you to weekly drum lessons. They’re in this weird building in a weird part of Oakland, at a place called the Oakland Drum School. But it really looks like a warehouse that’s been turned into a warren of small offices and shops, where noises (e.g. drumming) won’t bother people.

Of course, this is unimportant to you, as it should be – it is simply the place where you go to learn drums.

And boy, do you learn drums! I’ve gotten to go to many of your lessons, while your mom and Ana have been to some too. And we all agree – you’re good at drums. You and your friend Emmett Schultz both study at the Oakland Drum School, and they were going to have a recital in May. Then sadly, your drum teacher got sick and they had to cancel the recital. So your mom and Emmett’s mom decided they’d have a mini-recital for you two, at your house. Here’s what happened:

You got in there, overcame your nervousness about playing in front of people, and crushed Seven Nation Army. Everybody cheered.

And you’ve just stuck with it and continued to grow. You found a couple of tunes by Imagine Dragons: Alone and Thunder. You brought those to your teacher, he worked out the drum patterns in them, and you’ve been working on those two songs with them.

Which brings me to today, June 14th, 2023. It was the second half of your 45-minute lesson, and you and Travis were working on Thunder. He was on one kit, and you were on the other, both of you playing along with the recording. I had my eyes down and I was just listening to you both rocking along.

Then I looked up and at you, and my heart about exploded.

You weren’t looking at your teacher, Travis. You weren’t looking at me. You weren’t really looking anywhere.

No, Elena, you were in that place that musicians go when they’re just making music. What you were seeing was the music itself – a vibrant ephemeral thing, and you were part of it. I know what it’s like to be in that place, and when you’re there, you don’t want to leave. And in that moment, I wished that Alone by Imagine Dragons would never end, so you could stay in that magical bubble with the music.

It ended, of course – it always does. Musicians, they’re always looking for ways to get back to that place. Jimmy Buffett, the person who wrote the song Chansons pour les petits Enfants, has another song called Something so Feminine About a Mandolin. I sing it for you sometimes when it’s bed-time on sleepover Fridays. One of the lines is:

When I get older, and I have a daughter
I’ll teach her to sing, and play her my songs.
And I’ll tell her some stories I can barely remember
And hope that she will sing along.

And maybe one day she’ll take a fancy to picking…
‘Cause when that bug bites you, you live with the sting…

He’s telling his future daughter that if she ever learns to play an instrument, she’ll be “stuck” doing it her whole life.

Now, Elena, I saw you in that magic bubble with the music. You’re one of us now – the ones that think it sure would be fine to be back in that bubble one more time.

As we were leaving the lesson today, you said, to nobody in particular, “That was fun.” It’s not my place to say what you meant by that, but in my world, you meant, “That little while – when it was just me and the music all together – that was fun.”

The music is calling to you, Elena – I can tell that you hear it calling. You go on now, and follow.

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Music

Protected: Why the Alameda Mountain Ramblers?

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Family

Protected: To Elena: On sleeping

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Diving

I’m Not Coming Up

My granddaughter,  Elena, has a problem with swimming pools. Specifically,  exiting them. I mean, she’s eight years old, so it’s not like we expect to tell her, “You have ten more minutes in the pool” and have her jump out ten minutes later. This is simply a way of setting expectations to mitigate the systemic shock when she does actually have to finally get out. For real.

We give her 2-3 warnings, then say, “Okay, you have to get out now.” But somehow she’s always across the pool and/or underwater,  so she can’t hear us. So it usually takes five minutes from the point where she’s told to get out of the pool for her to actually climb out. Whatever. 

Which brings me to the dive I did today at Atlantis Dumaguete in the Philippines. It was a beautiful reef/muck dive, about which I’ll say more later. This is about ending the dive.

We’d been out for a perfectly reasonable,  actually generous, length dive, and had come back under the boat. Our group consisted of Lisa, me, and another Lisa (hereinafter “Smiley”, for avoidance of confusion). 

It was our last muck dive of the trip, and we were sitting on seagrass in about 12 feet of water, 15 feet from the boat. The sun was beaming down and a cloud of tiny silver fish were playing in the first couple of feet of water above us. The sunlight glittered off their bodies as they moved as a mercurial whole, a sci-fi scene of a luminous alien.

Our divemaster, KF, was hanging on the bottom of the swim ladder, looking at us, wondering why we weren’t coming over, since the other group had gone up. Or maybe he knew. 

Anyway, in that moment, I channeled my inner Elena Catherine, looked at Smiley, crossed my arms, squeezed my eyes shut, and shook my head vigorously from side to side.

The international dive sign for, “Nope, not going up.” 

Then I turned, faced Lisa, and did the same thing. Elena, had she been there,  would have understood and supported my position. She would wholeheartedly agree that going up, when we had plenty of air, and this magical fairyland setting, would be dumb. 

But then I saw that neither Lisa was buying it. Silly grown-ups.

So I actually did a generous thing. I was last to come up on the previous dive, so I put on my big boy pants, kicked over to the ladder and the awaiting divemaster, and went up. 

Giving the two Lisas a couple more minutes with the seagrass, sun, and tiny silver fish. 

Sigh. Back on the surface. (photo by Jo Talbot)

Categories
Diving

Diving Puako 120

If you’re a diver and find yourself on the Big Island of Hawai’i (which is probably not a coincidence) you owe it to yourself to do some shore diving. There is obviously plenty of great boat diving, and I can highly recommend Jack’s Diving Locker for that. But there’s something special about finding your own way to an awesome dive site. You get the experience all to yourself and your buddy(ies). If you want to be lazy about getting in the water, do so. Or if you’re a speed demon, you’re in the water before the boat divers have made it out of the harbor.

And I promise you that the shore diving is every bit as good as most of the boat dives you’ll do. Yeah, you gotta walk/crawl over lava. But for my money, it’s well worth it. Let me tell you about Puako 120. Puako is a little town 40 miles north of Kailua-Kona, immediately north of the Mauna Lani resort. It’s got a road, shockingly called “Puako Road,” that runs from Highway 19 down to the beach. All along it are glorious beach dives. This one is about “120” – you park at the utility pole labeled “120.”

If only all dive sites were so well labeled.

One great thing about Jack’s Diving Locker: they give out maps of the awesome shore dives. Here’s the Puako map:

Half a dozen great dive sites along one road.

Lisa and I left the Hale Kona Kai condo before 7:00am and were parked around 7:45.

First thing about diving Puako: be sure to mark your exit point. When you’re out in the ocean, everything looks the same. We hung a big orange/white striped beach towel off a tree on the shore.

The entry at Puako is the only bit of drama in the entire experience. There is slippery lava that you have to walk/craw over to reach the sandy bottom or deep enough that you can swim. I highly recommend going at high tide so you get deeper quicker.

The other recommendation: wear heavy booties, both for lava and urchin protection, meaning strapped, rather than full-foot, fins. Carry your fins in, and walk holding hands (three points of support) over the lava. I’m making it sound worse than it is – don’t let me put you off. Just be properly prepared, plan and time your entry right, and Bob’s your uncle.

There are mooring buoys all over the area. We took aim at the “middle” one, a heading of 15° off the beach. If you’re an old beach diver like Lisa and I are, the swim isn’t that daunting. And on a pretty Sunday morning in August, it’s downright enjoyable. Roll on your back (saves air for the underwater bit), kick slow and take your time.

We got almost to the buoy, when I looked down and saw a drop-off to about 40′ directly below us. “Look what I found.” I took a compass reading on our towel – sure enough, 195° – math is cool.

We found a sand bottom in 20′ at the edge of the drop-off, and went down there to adjust straps, clear masks, etc. Then we tumbled over and went down toward the sand. There is a gentle slope down to maybe 100′ – we hung around 50-60′. “Left or right?” I asked Lisa. Shrug. Shore dives are so fun. I picked left (westward) and we started cruising along the slope, enjoying the finger coral. Less than five minutes after we descended, this guy swam past us.

I didn’t take this picture, but it looked just like this.

I turned to see if Lisa was watching – her eyes were smiling ear to ear, so yeah. He came back 3-4 times. Lisa later said she saw him head up into the shallows. But it was fun to have him around for a little while.

Here’s the thing about drop-offs – I’m always turning to look out that way, because something amazing can swim past. Unlike the nature specials and Shark Week, the critters don’t have a swelling soundtrack to announce their arrival. I’ve always wondered how many astonishing sights I’ve missed because I was concentrating on something on the shoreward side. This wasn’t astonishing, but it was definitely way cool:

Whitetip reef shark. T. obesus

She was swimming parallel to us along the sand bottom, 40′ below us. If she was aware of us, she didn’t indicate it – she just passed us at a leisurely pace and disappeared into the gloom.

I should note that there were a bazillion reef fish of every sort. The outer slope reefs had clouds of anthias covering them. The big critters were fun, for sure. But even without them, the usual reef suspects made the dive delightful.

We continued on until we came to a weird topographic feature. As I mentioned above, there was a sand bottom at about 40′ below us to the right. But suddenly that sand bottom dropped off into the abyss in the direction we were going. And the slope that we were paralleling also dropped down into that same deep blue. It was beautiful. And freaky. We had to stop for a couple of minutes and just dig that particular junction.

Then it seemed like time to head back to slightly shallower water, so we headed up the slope. By sheer accident we ran smack into the mooring buoy one west of the one where we’d descended. I looked up and discovered that there was a boat attached to it, which explained the prop sounds we’d heard earlier in the dive.

My recollection of previous dives at Puako (a decade prior) was amazing topography, with canyons, arches, and towers of coral. I’d been missing that during the first part of the dive, and thought maybe I’d misremembered.

We just had to get to the right place. As we came up into 30-40′ of water near the second buoy, the canyons and arches appeared. I took a scientific wild-ass guess on the direction back toward our original buoy and we headed that way.

But we were careful to zig in and out toward shore to get the full joy of the terrain. Towers of coral. Archways that you could swim through, were they not full of big fish that you’d disturb. Dead-end canyons that looked like something out of a bizarre underwater cowboy western.

It was in one of those canyons that I had a memory of our friend Celeste Fowler. Man. We lost Celeste to cancer in 2004, and here 18 years on, it still stings. She was the most amazing diver, and just a magical spirit. Somehow I’d had the privilege of doing a dive with her at Puako – just the two of us. We were in one of those canyons, and Celeste was scanning her light under a ledge, when she waved me over. There was a whitetip shark sleeping on the sand under the ledge. We spent a few minutes enjoying that treat, then turned to head out. The canyon opened up in front of us, leading toward the drop-off – the view was stunning.

Celeste reached out and we held hands for a little while as we swam down the canyon. I hope that memory stays with me forever. Dives at Puako will help me keep it.

After meandering back in the general direction of home, Lisa and I thought it was time to think about finding the actual exit point. We found a sand patch, and I indicated that I was going to go up, get a proper compass reading, and come back down. But looking up, I saw a green sea turtle swimming over. It was surrounded by a dozen small jacks that were using its shell as a parasite cleaning station. One by one, the fish swam up to the turtle and wiped their sides against its shell, presumably to wipe parasites off themselves. Whether this has any benefit for the turtle, who knows?

They weren’t helping the turtle. Just scratching their own backs.

After that show was over, I went on up to the surface to get a compass reading. Miraculously, we were close to smack on the path that we’d taken out at the beginning of the dive (I’m just not that good at navigation) – home was at 200°.

We stayed underwater as far as possible because (a) it’s more fun, (b) you see more, and (c) it’s easier kicking underwater. Ultimately, we were at about 6′, so I gave up and ascended, much to Lisa’s annoyance.

We kicked on in, made our way across the lava, fins in hand, and got back to the shore. 65 minutes underwater, every one awesome.

Standing at the car, Lisa said, “That was great. Now let’s get lunch at Harbor House, then drive down to Two Step, and go snorkeling.” Gotta get full value for your last day in Kona.

Random shore diving note

Over the years, I’ve tended to weight myself more heavily than the textbooks suggest. Even the textbooks have gotten better about adding weight since my early training days in the 1980’s, because it’s important to be able to comfortably stay at your 15-20′ safety stop, even with an aluminum 80 cu. ft. tank that has added 3-5 lb. of buoyancy since it was full. But what the textbooks don’t talk about is the convenience and safety of being able to stay submerged at 15′, or 10′, or even 5′ on your return from a shore dive.

Experiment with a couple of extra pounds. I don’t think you’ll notice the difference at depth, but you’ll be glad that you’re able to still enjoy the dive as you swim back at a depth of 10′ toward the shore at Puako.

Categories
Music

Best. Concert. Ever.

I am a live music junkie, and I’ve been to my share of shows.

I’ve seen Chanticleer sing Renaissance polyphony by candlelight. I’ve seen the National Symphony Orchestra in full swing with Mstislav Rostropovich at the helm. I’ve seen Stephen Stills and Neil Young prowl around a stage, glaring, daring each other to produce a better solo during For What It’s Worth. I saw Chicago, at their height in the early 70’s, horns and Robert Lamm’s B3 raging. I sat in the rain while Tony Rice and Bela Fleck traded licks at Merlefest. I was the old white guy in the middle of the auditorium in Berkeley, losing my mind as George Clinton and Parliament brought The Funk. I sat in the 4th row and watched Yo-Yo Ma play trios with old college friends. Linda Ronstadt bouncing across the stage at Shoreline. Broadway performances of Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat and Godspell. I saw Ladysmith Black Mombazo sing and dance with Joseph Shabalala directing the entire affair. I was down front to watch the original Seldom Scene perform Wait a Minute. I stood at the stage on the Isle of Man, as Roger Daltry performed the entirety of Tommy. Lyle Lovett and his large (it’s not big) band. Lisa and I stood in a special reserved seating area in Hyde Park and watched Bruce Springsteen sing Twist and Shout with Paul McCartney. I saw Live From Here at the Ryman Theater. Elton John playing solo for a small-ish crowd on the Isle of Man. The Tallis Scholars performing Palestrina near the Severn River. Bruce Hornsby. I’m With Her. Hot Tuna.

And yes, I have seen Doc Watson sing Columbus Stockade Blues.

I know I’ve left some important ones out, but even recalling and typing that list gives me shivers. So I don’t write that title lightly. But there we were on Friday, August 5th, 2022, when the American Acoustic Tour came to Mountain Winery in Saratoga, CA. The line-up was the Punch Brothers, Watchhouse (formerly known as Mandolin Orange), and Sarah Jarosz – maybe that’s enough for you.

It was certainly enough for me and Lisa to grab tickets, toward the front, as soon as we saw it was coming through. Mountain Winery is an extraordinary venue – outdoor, yet intimate. Artists love it, audiences love it, and it brings out the best in both.

But neither my love for the artists on the line-up nor the venue properly prepared us for what was in store.

It began, in the dawn of twilight, with the entire ensemble performing the bluegrass standard Little Birdie. First a cappella, then raging bluegrass, then a cappella again. We cheered, everybody waved and left, except Sarah Jarosz. I’m not doing any band bios here – their individual accomplishments (including her Grammys) don’t tell the story.

She performed a set of some of her hits, including a recent cover of U2’s Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For. She said, “You know the words – go ahead and sing along.”

Which is a good place to tell you about the audience. Audiences for these artists come for the music. They are not there to party, and they make themselves part of the show only when it’s appropriate.

Sarah said to sing along, so we did. We got to the last time around and Sarah stopped singing, just strummed along on her octave mandolin, a beatific smile on her face. She was accompanying the crowd, and everybody was thrilled with that arrangement.

Then Chris Thile came back out, and said, “What about this woman?” We cheered.

And at this point we need to talk about Chris Thile, his genius, and his ego. Yes, he has a big ego, and he likes to be in the limelight. But we humans are not a menu from which you can take what you like and ignore what you don’t. His ego is inseparable from his once-in-a-generation genius. And his ability and willingness to have what the business world calls BHAGs – Big Hairy Audacious Goals.

Anybody can put together a tour of great musical acts. But it takes, well, it takes a genius to say, “What if we move people on and off the stage for three hours? We create every possible permutation of the amazing musicians we have, performing each others’ songs, and sometimes, songs that are ‘foreign’ to all of us.”

Exhibit A: Sarah Jarosz has finished her set. Thile is out there. They invite out Watchhouse’s cello player, Nate Smith. Perform a Punch, Jarosz, or Watchhouse tune? Nah, let’s go to the classical section of the record store:

And with that, the show flowed on. Watchhouse, occasionally augmented by Sarah or Chris.

I need to mention that as Watchhouse performed The Wolves, with its chorus line, “But I’ll go out howling at the moon tonight…,” a beautiful half-moon shone down from a clear sky onto the Mountain Winery. I’m sure I wasn’t in the only person in the audience with a lump in my throat. If you’ve never understood what The Wolves is about, neither did I, until I read this. Hint: it’s not a feel-good song.

Then Punch Brothers, weaving their usual acoustic magic, with the audience singing along to My Oh My.

Then the impossible happened… Thile and fiddle player Gabe Witcher began making weird chopping, cutting sounds with their instruments, standing face to face, like Stills and Young, daring the other to do something weirder. As this scene played, Noam Pikelny started the magical drone on his banjo. Sarah walked out, and I realized they were reprising the Live From Here performance of Massive Attack’s Teardrop. As did many in the audience, and we promptly lost our minds.

My wife calls this music, “The chamber music of our time.” Some people will try to squeeze “grass” into the name somewhere. Sure, these musicians can (and do) fire up a bluegrass standard now and again. The instrumentation is there, and they all grew up on bluegrass, so when they play bluegrass and fiddle tunes, it’s as good as you’ll ever hear it.

But Itzhak Perlman playing klezmer music does not make klezmer music western classical music. It makes Itzhak Perlman a genre-hopper, and a genius one at that.

“American Acoustic” might be a great name for the genre, as well as the title of the tour.

One of the most glorious portions of the show was when all 11 musicians were on the stage. At times, there were 4-5 instruments being played arco (bowed), with the rest plucked. I will bet a lot of money that Gabe Witcher, a high-demand composer and arranger in L.A., was responsible for the string arrangements.

There was one song, sadly, I can’t remember which one, that faded to a string quartet of Gabe and Emily Frantz of Watchhouse on fiddle, Nate Smith on cello, and Paul Kowert on bass, all arco. As the plucked instruments subsided, those players stood in a group and watched as the quartet brought the piece to a beautiful, mildly dissonant, heart-rending ending.

Anyway, as anticipated, the show ended with everybody on stage. [Except for Watchhouse’s guitar player, Josh Oliver, and bass player, Clint Mullican.] It started with Chris, Emily, Andrew, and Sarah singing, “Rye whiskey, rye whiskey, rye whiskey I cry…” We all knew where that was going. But what if the Punch classic Rye Whiskey was played not by five great musicians, but nine great musicians? Recall when you saw Punch Brothers playing this live (you have, haven’t you?). Now visualize 2x the horsepower, with the same verve and joie de musique

Let me put this way: the shadows you see on the back wall behind the stage – that’s how big those musicians really are.

Oh, and Emily Frantz sang Rye Whiskey like Thile had written the song for her. Her presence on stage is, in a word, overwhelming. For this tune, she abandoned the honey of her Tarheel voice and went full moonshine county. Pass that bottle over here.

This will wrap your troubles up in a bright blue box and tie a bow around it.

Sorry, I gotta glance back at that. Watch at 2:50. You have Paul and Nate doing a bass/cello arco duet of the melody, while Andrew stands between them, best seat in the house, just grooving. At 3:08, Gabe and Emily land on it with both feet and we’ve got four masters playing the melody, arco, across three different octaves. Critter, who usually smiles, is grinning from ear to ear. He’s heard and played this tune a hundred times, but man, never quite like this.

The encore, for which I was delighted to see Clint and Josh return, was not a song, but an entire set, and rather than me try to describe it, I’ll pass you over to YouTube.

The second song is Can’t Be Sure by the Sundays. It’s a lovely tune, by an indy band with a passionate cult following. Kinda like… nevermind. I had never heard the tune, so went and listened to the original. The American Acoustic cover was accurate, loving, and brought their own vibe to it. Not surprisingly, Sarah crushed it.

The third encore piece was the Watchhouse classic Wildfire. And here, I want to address those of you who say that Thile’s ego gets in the way. This is a Watchhouse song, Andrew is singing lead, and Chris knows exactly where his place is – to sing “Mmmmm” in the back-up. Then watch at 0:40. Guitarist Josh Oliver is kind of hanging back – Chris steps back and waves him up to the mic. It’s Josh’s band – he gets near the mic. Chris Thile is devoted to the music, and when that means he steps back, he does.

The very last tune looped back around to bluegrass. In this case, classic bluegrass gospel. It was if they were saying, “We know we’ve taken you on a light-speed tour to our own corner of the galaxy. We’ll bring you back home to safe and familiar ground.”

And as they closed the show, Thile held out his hands and emphasized the line, “…where all is peace and joy and love…” It was, without doubt, a final prayer and benediction.